We get a lot of questions from people new to chalk paint who want to know if it truly is a no-prep paint. And the answer is yes and no.
Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results. So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.
Chalk paint adheres to furniture beautifully without the use of primer and (usually) no sanding. A quick cleaning is typically all you need. With that being said, there’s very rarely a piece of furniture that goes through our shop that doesn’t need some type of prep work before paint. Because when you’re working with used furniture, it’s typically been loved on for quite a few years. It’s scratched and peeling and dirty, and if you just whip out a brush and start painting, you probably won’t end up with the best results. So we decided to put together a list of things to look for before you start painting furniture pieces and how to fix them.
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A Rough Surface
The first is the most obvious. When your piece has deep scratches, gouges or an uneven finish, it needs to be filled and/or sanded. Chalk paint is a thicker paint and can cover minor unevenness in the finish, but for the most part if you start with a rough surface, you’re still going to have a rough surface after paint.
The Fix:
Fill deep scratches with wood filler. Elmer’s Color Change Wood Filler is our favorite. It has a smooth consistency, is easy to work with and dries quickly. It also goes on purple and dries light tan or white so it’s easy to see when it’s dry. Sand it smooth when dry and you’re ready to go.
If a large portion of the surface is rough, flaky, or it has a sloppy existing paint job with lots of drip marks, we’ll smooth it out with our favorite sander. We have three different power sanders and this one is by far my favorite. I rarely get the other two off the shelf. Trust me on this one. Best. Sander. Ever.
Loose Or Peeling Veneer
If your piece has veneer, carefully check to make sure none of the veneer is loose or peeling. Any loose veneer needs to be fixed or removed prior to painting.
The Fix:
We wrote a step by step tutorial for filling missing veneer with Bondo here. In addition to that technique, you can also use regular wood filler to fill small missing sections.
If the veneer is too far gone to try repairing it, your best bet it to completely remove it. Most pieces have solid wood under the veneer so you can just remove it and paint the wood underneath without replacing the veneer. To remove the veneer pull off the loose sections. Then place a damp towel over the remaining sections. Let it hang out for a bit and it will help loosen the glue. If it’s really stubborn, you can use a hot iron over the damp towel to steam it and loosen the glue.
Wood Tannins Bleeding Through The Paint
Certain types of wood and some water stains will bleed through paint.
The Fix:
If there’s just a small spot or two that’s bleeding, an easy fix it to spray it with a couple coats of Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac. We love this stuff and always have it on hand. If it’s more than just a spot or two, or if I have a hunch before I get started that it’s going to bleed, I prime the entire piece with a paint-on primer like Zinsser Bulls Eye 123.
Sometimes you don’t realize it’s going to be a bleeder until you already have a coat of paint on it and can see the stain seeping through. Not to worry, you can prime right over your existing coat of paint (both paint on and spray primers), then keep painting when your primer is dry. I typically do two coats of primer on bleeders, but every once in a while you’ll have a piece that needs more.
Oily Surfaces
If your piece has an oily finish, has been repeatedly cleaned with Pledge, or just has a super slick and shiny surface, your paint may not stick well.
The Fix:
There’s a few to choose from. If the surface is oily or has a lot of residue, try wiping it down with Odorless Mineral Spirits. For slick/shiny surfaces, clean it first then give it a couple coats of primer. Or if it’s a real problem piece, you might have to sand it down to the raw wood.
I recently painted the table in the photo above with chalk paint and the paint literally peeled off with my fingernails. This has never happened to me before and I have no clue what was on the surface. I ended up sanding it down to raw wood then gave it two coats of shellac before repainting it. I had no problems the second time around but I was kicking myself for not prepping properly and the wasted time and paint used.
Hardware Changes
Sometimes the existing hardware leaves an indentation in the wood. If you’re planning to change out the hardware, you’ll want to smooth out those indentations so they’re not visible around the new hardware.
The Fix:
If you’re reusing the same hardware, or if the new hardware is large enough to cover the indentations, you don’t have to do anything. If you do need to fix it, sometimes a light sanding will even it out, or you can use wood filler.
One more word about hardware changes… if you’re just changing out a knob with a single screw, you’re fine. But if you’re replacing handles with two screws on the back, keep in mind that the distance between the screws is different on a lot of hardware, and your new hardware will probably not fit in the existing holes. I recommend trying to find your new handles before you start painting. If they happen to fit in the existing holes, you’re good. If not, you can fill them in with wood filler before you start painting. If you don’t have your new hardware yet, I would consider just filling the holes before you start painting. There is nothing worse than finishing a gorgeous paint job only to find out your new hardware doesn’t fit in the existing holes and now you have to fill, sand, and repaint the old holes. I’ve been known to drag a whole drawer into Hobby Lobby to choose new hardware. We have a huge list of places to find furniture hardware here.
Smelly Furniture
Some used furniture pieces smell really musty or like cigarette smoke. The best remedy I’ve found for stinky furniture is a thorough cleaning and some time to bake in the sun. If that doesn’t work and you’re having trouble ridding the odor, try just going ahead and priming and painting the whole piece, inside and out. Often times a good primer will seal in the odors. Zinsser BIN is supposed to be better at sealing in odors than Zinsser 123. They’re both paint-on primers, but BIN is shellac based and 123 is water based. I will say that BIN is not my favorite primer to work with because it’s super thin and runny, and because it’s not water based so not as easy to cleanup. But, since we’re talking about stink-blocking factor, I thought I should mention it.
Moral of the story: We love chalk paint. It’s a fantastic product, but your finished piece will only be as good as the base you started with. Taking a little extra time at the beginning will ensure your finished piece will look beautiful and professional.
Have a question about prepping for chalk paint that we didn’t cover? Leave a comment or feel free to email us with your questions.
Looking for more info on chalk paint? Check out our Chalk Paint FAQ’s and our Chalk Paint Tips For Beginners.
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Fantastic tips Amy! We agree that your finished results are only as good as your beginning prep work! Your painted furniture pieces are beautiful and your attention to these steps are obvious 🙂
Thanks so much Vicki & Jenn!
I’m painting yellow pine with Annie Sloan Pure (a white).
I’ve done a couple of costs and having come back to it there’s some knots showing through slightly.
Will more costs cover this or should I primer coat it now even though I’ve painted a couple of coats already?
Hi tell me can i paint the chalk paint direct onto the chest of drawse that is pressed wood
Hi Anne! You shouldn’t have any problem painting directly onto pressed wood. If for some reason you notice the paint doesn’t seem to be adhering I would prime it first. Hope that helps!
I needed this! Thank you!
Hi there, I have a very old piece of furniture that I suspect might be painted with lead paint. Is it safe to coat it in chalk paint or seal it with shellac? I’d rather not play around with paint stripper but the piece has derp sentimental value to me and I’d like to get it fit for use in my house.
Great tips as always! I have never used shellac on a piece and know that I should have on some! Would have saved me a lot of paint! Pinning and sharing! 🙂
Misty you NEED shellac! It’s the best thing ever for bleeding or just to give your paint a little tooth. I promise you’ll love it :).
This is a wonderful post. Your tips are spot on. I am pinning this!
Thanks Bre!
How about a high gloss table top
Hi Linda! Are you asking if you’ll need to prep a high gloss table top before painting with chalk paint? I personally would. Either a quick once over with a sander to rough it up or a coat of primer.
Yes that’s what I was referring. Thank you for quick reply
What kind of primer?
I like the Zinsser primers (I use Zinsser 1-2-3 the most), but any water based primer suitable for furniture is fine.
Sand then prime?
If your piece needs sanding (it’s scratched up, etc) sand before priming. If the surface is smooth and needs no sanding you can prime only without sanding. 🙂
I have a dining table that is pine with a glossy finished top. I noticed that it is getting “sticky” in some areas. I want to refinish but not sure what kind of prep to do. Any advice is appreciated.
Pine is prone to bleeding, so if you sand the existing finish off you’ll most likely have to add a few coats of primer to block stains bleeding through. I’m not sure what you mean by sticky? If the surface is smooth and unblemished you should be fine cleaning and priming it (assuming the stickiness you refer to is from the existing finish wearing off, I would still prime it even if I didn’t sand) then painting.
What about a dresser that has been painted white, it’s peeling in some places but solid in others, do I need to sand down to the wood ?
I would sand it all off. That way you know you’re starting with a good, solid base and whatever caused it to peel won’t continue to do so after you’ve painted over it.
Thanks for the great tips! I’m going to try the tip with shellac as I do occasionally get bleed-thru.
You’re going to love the shellac! It really works great.
Great tips, Amy! Thanks for sharing! You’ve become a pro at this!!! 🙂
Not a pro yet! There’s so much to learn and so many products to try. We’ve been using Annie Sloan pretty consistently but we’ve just recently started branching out and we’ll be posting about different products. Thanks so much for stopping by, friend!!
I have a table that finished and chairs that come with it. I believe it’s oak wood. I’d really like to just get right to it and use chalk paint since I’ve been reading that it doesn’t require any prep. What do you suggest? Also, do I need shellac? Not really sure what the shellac is for but it kept popping up as I kept searching.
Thank you tons!
Shellac (like zinsser bullseye shellac) can be used as a primer under chalk paint. I use it often, especially on pieces that need priming that I’m planning to distress because it dries clear. Every piece is different, many don’t require any prep before painting but some do. If the table set will get heavy use I think it’s a good idea to prime it. You could also paint a small test patch then try scratching it with your fingernail when it’s dry. If it peels up easily it’s a good indication you’ll need to sand and/or prime. If it seems we’ll adhered you’re probably good to go. I would also suggest sealing a table set with something stronger than wax, such as a water based poly. General finishes high performance top coat is one of my favorites. Hope that helps!
Really great, helpful tips. The only thing I can think of that could be added to your painting arsenal is liquid deglosser. I tend to use it on woodwork and/or cabinetry … think of items that would be a real pain to sand or you don’t want to deal with the dust. I also really like TSP Substitute for cleaning gross, dirty furniture — Wouldn’t it be nice if the furniture was delivered to us all clean and sanded?! haha Take care and thanks again!
I’ve not used either of those products so I’m glad you mentioned them. And yes, I’d love it if everything was delivered prepped and ready for me to immediately break out the paintbrush :).
What great tips! I honestly feel intimated sometime cuz I am not sure exactly how to go about prepping some pieces!! Great info!!
-shonee
http://www.hawthorneandmain.com
Thanks Shonee!
Thanks so much for these tips Amy! I am going to be taking on my first chalk paint project shortly and this will definitely come in handy!
Awesome tips!! Clear shellac is probably my favorite prep work tool, too – I always make sure to have it on hand, in spray and in a gallon bucket! Thanks for sharing your tricks of the trade, and for joining us at Dream. Create. Inspire. Link.
I primed on untreated wood just to save the amount of paint it took, with the cost, I wanted to save as much paint as possible. a cheap can of spray primer was with the effort to save my paris grey!
That’s such a great idea, Laura! I’ve had to put 4 coats on untreated wood before. Priming it definitely would have been cheaper. p.s. LOVE me some Paris Grey!! 🙂
This is fantastic! What a great tutorial. I keep thinking about chalk paint, but I can’t image not sanding, haha. Maybe one of these days I’ll give it a try!
I am wondering. I cleaned a serfice the other day with TSP. then used soap and water to clean that off and painted chalk paint over the entire piece. I had to run an errand and came back and half of the paint was crackled… do you know what that would mean? I thought maybe I put it on too thick but it wasnt at all. Was the area still dirty?
Hey Mallorie! My guess is the surface either wasn’t completely dry or some of the soap didn’t get rinsed off. I would sand the areas where it’s cracking, clean the surface again with water, then make sure it’s completely dry before you repaint. If you’re still having trouble spots, sand those spots again then give them a couple coats of Zinsser shellac and repaint. Good luck! I know how frustrating it is when the paint isn’t behaving. If you’re still having issues after those suggestions shoot me a message and we’ll try to figure it out.
I’m having this very same issue! I cleaned, painted with ASCP, Old White, and it peeled. I read your post (amazingly helpful), sanded the trouble areas down, recleaned well, applied Zissner Shellac sealer, repainted STILL PEELING! Help! Due in 2 weeks with Baby #3 and it’s my changing table! :'(
Fantastic tips, thank you Amy! Question for you. When you say “super slick”, would that include highly varnished surfaces? We inherited a LOT of wood and some of it is varnished. Would you shellac that? Also, would you use shellac in place of Zinsser BIN? I get really confused as to the differences between the Zinsser BIN, Bullseye and 123 products!! Thanks for your help 🙂 @SuzyHomemakerUK x
Hi Sue! If a surface is highly varnished I would definitely prime it or go over it quickly with a fine grit sander. I’ve never used Zinsser BIN or 123, but I would think they’d work just as well to prep your surface as the shellac. Are those both paint on primers? I’ve used the Zinsser Bulls Eye 2 Multi Purpose paint on primer and it also works great. Best of luck with your projects!!
Hey Amy. Thank you for responding. That’s really useful. Yes, the ones I plain to use are paint-on primers. After reading your post, I took another look at the Zinsser (UK) website. There’s now a handy chart that lists which primers are best for which surface. Yay! It turns out *some* of the products are good for more than one surface, while others are just better. That explains why I was seeing different primers for the same job. No wonder I was getting confused! Can’t wait to get cracking now. Thanks again x
Hi! A couple of questions- I have a hope chest that was spray painted black. I just spray painted it with Rustoleum paint with primer in it. I don’t like it at all. It feels gritty and dull and didn’t cover the black perfectly even after 2-3 coats. What should I do to prep it for chalk paint?
Also- I like my furniture to feel smooth and have a slight sheen when done. Do I sand lightly after painting and then will a wax help with the finish? (or maybe I shouldn’t use chalk paint)
Thanks!! I do plan to distress it a bit at the end
Hey Julie! I think chalk paint would be perfect for your project. If the existing finish is gritty, I would sand it before repainting. You don’t have to remove all the paint, just even out the finish and remove the gritty texture. You could try using a fine grit sanding block, or if you have a power sander I’d use that with a fine grit paper (maybe a 220 grit). Next paint with your choice of chalk paint, and if you like a slight sheen on on your finish, I would probably choose to seal it with a poly rather than wax. I recently used CeCe Caldwell’s Endurance for the first time and really liked the finish. I also like General Finishes water based poly in Satin. Don’t be afraid to mix different brands of paint and sealers. I used the CeCe Caldwell’s Endurance over Annie Sloan paint. They all play nicely together. You can use wax and buff it to get a sheen if you want to go the wax route, but based on the finish you’re describing I think my choice would be a poly. Also, make sure you’re sanding with a very fine grit (220 or 320) sanding block between coats of paint, and even mix a little water into your paint to thin it out if your goal is a smooth finish. Chalk paint is a bit thicker on it’s own and can leave brush marks if you don’t sand and/or water it down. Oh and do your distressing before sealing it. I think I answered everything but if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to message me! Good luck with your project! ~Amy
Thanks so much! Do you have a preferred chalk paint? Kinda $$$. Ever made your own? Does the poly sealer have to be water based?
I’ve never made my own but I have several friends who successfully make their own all the time. I know the girls who blog at 2 Bees In A Pod pretty well and if I were to try making my own chalk paint I’d try their recipe first. You can find it here: http://2beesinapod.com/2015/04/02/homemade-chalk-paint-table-makeover/ Just remember to mix the plaster of paris with water until it’s completely smooth before adding paint. If it’s not completely smooth your paint will end up gritty and it’s impossible to mix out the grittiness once you add paint. I don’t know why I’m hesitant to make my own except I do a lot of work for other people and I’m afraid I’ll screw it up and the paint won’t hold up. I need to try it on a piece I intend to keep first so I can make sure it stays nice over time.
Annie Sloan’s brand was the first chalk paint I ever used. It’s a great paint and I still love it and use it often but I’ve been branching out and trying different brands recently so I can pass on my thoughts and reviews to you guys. Annie Sloan’s brand is on the more expensive end. Americana Decor is a great brand that’s a bit cheaper and you can find it pretty much anywhere. Valspar brand at Lowe’s is also cheaper but I’ve heard bad reviews from other painters (haven’t tried it myself).
The poly sealer doesn’t have to be water based. You can use an oil based poly, just keep in mind an oil based sealer will eventually yellow over time. If you apply a water based poly appropriately it shouldn’t yellow. Hope that helps!!
Can you give me any info on where I can order or purchase Annie Sloan chalkboard paint? It would be greatly appreciated.
Why not buy buy Rustolen < is that spelt correct 😀) anyway having used so many myself I find this brand to be one of the best up there with ASP's there waxs different Annie's is a lot more hard warding but Rust-olen is easier but it does tend to leave a yellow chalking finish on your colour which can look great if that's the look you are going for. And Rest-Olen's wax is more expensive the ASCP n Waxs. I no agree with the chalks paints do need to be watered down one quart water to 3 quarts paint I would rather build to get the right colour also always remember ratherless of what finish you decide to uses remember it will darken the paint colour. It's also wise to let your pieces dry out let the wax cure which can sometimes take up to 10 days depending on the piece so before you go moving them around be carefully you don't end up with fingers prints all over your piece.
I so look forward to reading all your ideas
Hi! Thank you for this!!! I am new to chalk painting and I’ve completed my first couple of projects. So thrilled with the results! I did, however, notice that the paint did not adhere very well to one of the two projects (thickly coated paint from probably 30 years ago). I now want to move on to painting an electric fireplace. The face of it is very cheap looking as it’s melamine (I believe). (I know I can’t wax it). Do I need to prep a melamine or similar surface before painting?? Thanks!!! 🙂
Hey Cass! I’ve actually never painted that type of surface. Chalk paint sticks to most surfaces but like you noticed with one of your pieces, sometimes it just doesn’t. You can test the melamine surface by painting just a small section, let it dry then try scraping it with your fingernail. If the paint comes off really easily, you probably should prime it first.
I’m glad you’re projects are going well! I think it’s such a fun and easy paint to work with and it’s quite forgiving if you’re new. Good luck with your future projects!!
Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll definitely just try a small spot and let it dry. I’m a bit too hasty with wanting to get my projects done. I really should take my time to make sure I do them right. 😉
Girlfriend I hear you! I’m the most impatient crafter. I like to get directly to the fun part and can’t get through the prep work fast enough! Let me know how it goes.
Hi Amy, These are great tips for prep when it becomes necessary. I’ve never tried Bondo before. My brother uses it on cars as he does bodywork for reprinting cars. Thank you for the detailed description about how to use it. Here are my two cent tips to share…
1) Liquid Sander Deglosser is great for really slick surfaces and supper easy to use. Your paint will go a lot further if you use this product first over high gloss surfaces. It allows you to get more coverage in your first coat of paint by giving the surface some “tooth”. This will save paint, steps and time. So, instead of a third or maybe even four coats of paint, you can usually paint the normal two coats and maybe even just one coat. You just saturate a terry cloth towel or rag and wipe over the surface. It dries in 10 minutes or less and you are ready to paint. It’s that easy! It is also a very good cleaner.
2) Krud Kutter is great for removing a number of stubborn things like grease and oil. When all else fells, TSP is excellent for cleaning all unknown crud lurking on old furniture.
3) The Paper Towel test… I also use Zinnser’s Bullseye Shellac and their other primers that you mentioned (very good advice). To test whether or not you will get bleed through before painting, here is a simple test… Dampen a paper towel and lay it on the surface and let it sit for about 20-30 minutes. If you get bleed through onto the paper towel, then you know you need to seal it before painting.
3) One more tip… I have used a lot of different paints on the market, ASCP included and it is a good paint. You asked about others to try and I would recommend Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paint made by Heirloom Traditions Paint, as well as, Heirloom Traditions. Love this paint and it is a little less costly, as well!
Tina, these are fantastic tips! Thanks so much for sharing. I’m familiar with Heirloom Traditions paint but haven’t had a chance to try it yet. I’ll definitely add it to the top of my list of paints to try. I’m so glad you stopped by and thanks again for the great advice!!
Love these tips! Thanks. I’ve painted a bunch of things with milk and chalk paint, live them. But I have to redo this one table I did with a milk paint. I THOUGHT it was sealed ok with wax. But the bottom of a wet vase took the paint right off:( this never happened before. Can I prime with the shellack, THEN use milk paint? And would a poly be better, for a better sealer?
Hi Mimi! Yes and Yes. You can prime with shellac then paint with milk paint, and a poly is a stronger sealer in my opinion. I love General Finishes water-based top coat, and they even carry it in a flat finish, so while it doesn’t have the same pretty luster as a waxed piece, it’s not super shiny like some polys either. Any water-based poly would be great though.
And I’m sure you already know this but you can’t poly over wax. Probably the easiest way to fix this would be to remove all the wax from the entire top with mineral spirits. Lightly sand the damaged area, apply shellac if you think you need it, repaint the entire top so it looks even, then apply a few coats of poly. I think you could get away with just polying the top and not redoing the sides, unless you think the paint may peel in other areas too. If it’s peeling everywhere I’d sand the whole thing down and start from scratch but hopefully you won’t have to do that!
Hi, thanks for the blog. I am a very conventional painter and knowing why we sand and clean a surface and being aware why paint does what it does, I have a hard time to believe that chalk paint can bypass prep work (if you want a durable coat that sticks for many years). Since most paints are now water based, you have to make sure that the surface you paint is not hydrophobic, so any greasy or silicone spots must be gone. Paint only sticks to the surface right under it. So if that layer is in bad shape and starts flaking or loosening, your new coat comes off with it. That is one reason of sanding, to discover those weak spots that you will over look with quickly wiping a rag over a piece. However, sanding, by creating micro grooves in the surface, most of all increases the contact area with the paint, creating a much stronger bond.
I am always following this subject, hoping to read why chalk paint (conventional paint mixed with plaster) should not need traditional prepping, but I haven’t found a satisfying answer yet. Could you shed a light on the chemical and pshysical properties of this paint in comparrison to other paint, that would explain the difference? Thanks, Barry
You mention how to prep for peeling veneer, does veneer need prepping even if it’s not peeling so that the chalk paint adheres to it?
Hey Tomi! When veneer is intact, you do not need to do anything to prep it other than making sure the surface is clean.
I have 4 composite wood chairs (white) and want to paint them a walnut color. First, can it be done; 2nd can I use Annie Sloan paint?
Hi Anna! You can absolutely paint composite wood with chalk paint. Usually the finish on composite wood is quite smooth and/or shiny. Because of this, I would probably opt to throw a coat of primer down before I start painting, but you might be able to get away without it.
Really liked your tips. Just got started 3 days ago and painted just about everything. If husband was not so busy I probably would have painted him as well. And then….. Painted and old office desk (laminated or Veneer as you guys in UK would say and disaster. I thought no prepping. I spend so much time painting this table even did gold leave on it. When I start the waxing process I realized that the paint if coming of. Rush to the paint shop and bought water based sealer from plascon and tried a corner at the bottom. Have to wait 48 hours but after 8 hours if you scratch if with your nails it leaves a mark. What to do, please help me.
Hi Louise! Somehow I missed this comment earlier, so please forgive my late response. If scratching the paint with your fingernail just leaves a scratch mark on the paint, that’s usually normal. Especially if it’s a darker color. What we’re looking for is whether the paint actually peels up when you scratch it. Is that happening? I’d love to hear where you’re at with the piece and if you’re still having problems. Hoping it all worked out for you!
This was great! I 100% agree with all of these. Your examples are specific and your suggestions for solutions simple and straight forward. I will be pinning this and bookmarking it to use as a resource for my customers–I am a CeCe Caldwell’s Paints products retailer and this is one of the most often asked questions! The answer really is dependent on the material and the condition as well as the desired look they are wanting. I really like how you broke it down, thank you for the awesome post!
Hi Misty! Such a sweet comment! I’m glad you liked the post. Thanks so much for stopping by. (Btw, I just visited your blog. Love what you did with the laundry room). 🙂
Is it necessary to use a primer if I’m painting chalkboard paint on my bedroom wall??
Hi Sharon! Chalkboard paint right? Not chalk paint. If it is chalkboard paint, you usually do not have to prime the wall first, but read the can to be sure the brand you chose doesn’t require primer. If you ever decide to paint over the chalkboard you will have to prime it before covering with regular paint again. Hope that helps :).
Can you use chalk paint over oil based paint? I have a corner cabinet that was painted several years with oil based paint and I would like to change the color, the chalk paint sounds so much easier than using oil based again.
Hi Becky! Typically you can paint right over oil based paint with no issue. If for some reason it seems like your paint isn’t adhering properly, just throw a coat of primer on first. You can test it by painting a little section and letting it dry. Then give it the scratch test. If it peels right up when you scratch it, you’ll need to prep the surface. If the paint is sticking well, you should be good. Good luck with your project!
If I have a piece that has been painted with chalkpaint, can the piece be painted over with regular paint ? Would any prep be required to do so ?
Hi Tommy! Yes, if you paint over chalk paint with latex paint or something similar, you will have to prep the surface. You’ll have to read the can to see what’s required for the specific paint you choose, but there will definitely be some prep involved.
Great Tips! I just painted my kitchen table with chalk paint and wax – I had some bleed through spots where my husband had used a “furniture pen” to hide some of our problem spots. If I buy the spray shellac, do I just put it right on the spot? What is the next step? Paint again? Sorry I am a DIY novice 🙂
Thank you,
Amie
ps- will definitely be pinning this!
Hi Amie! Yes, you can just spray the shellac right on the trouble spots. It dries fairly quickly, and I would do a couple coats. The next step is to paint again, but unfortunately you won’t be able to just touch up the paint. It would look really obvious that you just painted those specific areas, so you’ll need to do a full coat or two over that entire section of the table. So if it’s just the table top, you’ll want to paint that entire surface after shellac. Make sense? Hope that helps and thanks for pinning!
Thank you so much! I am pretty sure your blog is my new favorite obsession! I am totally a DIY wannabe 🙂
You’re too kind! 🙂 I’m so glad you stopped by, Amie.
I just painted my bed a grey color and it was without using chalk paint. It turned out horrible. I just bought some chalk paint and I am asking if I need to sand my bed before I paint again since I just painted it.
Hey Desiree! Sorry your first attempt didn’t turn out how you wanted it. What was horrible about it? Just the color or was the paint not adhering well? If it was just the color and you prepped properly before the paint you just put on the bed, you shouldn’t have to do anything before using chalk paint to cover it. Hope that helps and good luck!
I’m sure it’s been asked before…I have a French Provincial piece that I’m going to use Annie Sloan Chalk Paint on. It is an older piece so there is some kind of vainer on it. Do I need to sand it down to wood? But it appears to have had some kind of distressing done to it previously. I’m hoping you will say good cleaning hit high spots with sander (top).
Thank you for your time…
Janine Edmondson
Hey Janine! Good news, you don’t have to sand it down to bare wood. A good cleaning, and as you said, knocking down the high spots to smooth it out should be all you need for your paint to adhere properly. Good luck with your project. French Provincial pieces are some of my favorites!
I have nest of tables which have been previously French polished, how to I prep this to put chalk paint on?
You actually might be able to paint right over it with no prep (other than a thorough cleaning). You can try putting a little paint down, let it dry then scratch it. Does it peel up easily with your fingernail? If so you need to prep. If the paint adheres well you’re good to go. If you do need to prep, I would probably just scuff it up with a sander. Or if they’re small tables you can give them a quick spray with Zinsser bullseye shellac.
Can you use chalk paint over enamel paint? If so, what prep do you recommend?
I’d like the answer to this one also!
So sorry I missed this question the first time! Yes, you can absolutely use chalk paint over enamel. Is the existing paint job done well? No drip marks, peeling paint, etc? If so, you can likely just clean it well and start painting. If the existing paint is sloppy and/or peeling I would recommend sanding it before re-painting. If you’re having any issues with your new paint adhering to the old paint, you want to either sand the existing paint off or prime it with something (I use Zinsser primers a lot and like them). Sorry for the long answer! Every piece is different and some existing finishes don’t play nicely when you try to paint over them. My guess is you’ll just need to clean and start painting but hopefully this will give you some direction if you happen to have issues. Good luck!!
Do you use the oil-based or water-based Zinsser primer?
I use the water based 123 most often if I’m priming the entire piece. I also use the shellac-based BIN, and the bullseye spray shellac. All work great and the spray shellac is awesome for small pieces and spot coverage for small bleed through areas.
I want to use white chalk paint on my mahogany bedroom furniture. It is from Harden and there is nothing wrong with the finish at all; we’re just looking for a change after 30 years! Should I prime over the factory finish or do any chemical treatment first? Also I’ve heard that wax must be reapplied every few months and not sure I want to have to do that. Thank you for your time!
Hi Jan! I would prime first. Mahogany doesn’t always bleed but it does often and to me it’s less of a headache just to prime it first. And yes, if you seal it with wax you will eventually have to re-wax it at some point. How often the furniture is used will determine how often you would have to re-wax the finish. You don’t have to seal chalk paint with wax and can use something else if you want. I rarely use wax because I’m not a fan of its minimal durability. I use general finishes water based top coat on most pieces I paint and really like it. If you use something like that you won’t have to re-do the finish. Hope that helps :).
I have 2 projects to ask about:
1. I sanded, wiped down, primed and painted with latex paint an old chair for my grandson for a lego table with black and bold colors. The Table did great but the chair peeled with every color used. I didn’t use TSP, could have been my problem. Haven’t done many projects so now I am gun shy! Do I need to sand it all down again, TSP and repaint it? Are Chalk paints sealed with water bases poly durable for a child’s chair?
2. I found an old dresser for my granddaughter’s room. He mom would like me to paint it so she can paint her own designs on it. I chalk paint a good surface for her to paint on? Should she use darker colors of Chalk Paint for her designs over the base color? And seal it all with a water based poly?
Thank you, your page has been helpful, I have never used Chalk Paint, but want to try it.
Kathy Buser
Hey Kathy! I was just scanning through the comments here and realized I didn’t see your questions before now. So sorry! You probably don’t need an answer anymore but I’ll just in case I’ll leave my thoughts. On the table.. TSP could make a difference. Twice I’ve come across a table that peeled and repelled paint no matter what I did to it. I finally sanded it really well, then primed and painted and it was fine. Don’t be gun shy! Some pieces are just stubborn. Here’s what I would do: clean it well. Paint a little swatch of paint and let it dry, then scratch it with your fingernail. Does it peel right off? If so I would sand the heck out of it. If it’s adhering well I would throw a coat of primer on it (just because it’s been such a problem up to this point) then paint it.
For the dresser, I think that’s a really cool idea. Yes, chalk paint would be a fantastic surface for her. You can use darker chalk paint colors, but depending on what she wants to paint and how many colors she needs, that could get super expensive. You can actually buy those little tubes of acrylic paint at the craft store and she can use those to paint her design. I would definitely seal the dresser with a water based poly afterward, and the same sealer would be a good choice for the chair as well. Hope that helps and I do apologize for the delayed response!!
Amy, thank you for your response! I was afraid that I would have to strip the chair down and redo it! Next time I will strip down further, TSP this time, primer again and paint only black this time, Not so much work. But will start with a small area to make sure it doesn’t peel. I appreciate your advice on the paint for the dresser. I’m glad Chalk paint is a good base for a young budding artist. I like the acrylic paint advice! Much easier than several cans of paint. Kathy Buser
Hi I’m wanting to chalkboard paint my kitchen table, it’s not real wood, I’m guessing it’s like particle board or something to that effect. Any suggestions before I get started and create a disaster haha
Hey Kristina! You can definitely use chalk paint on furniture that’s not solid wood. Kitchen tables are usually high traffic pieces of furniture so my only advice would be to prep it well and don’t seal it with wax. Choose a poly or something strong enough to withstand heavy use. Also make sure you’re getting chalk paint, not chalkboard paint- two totally different products. Wishing you luck with your project and if you run into any problems or have specific questions just email me :).
Any suggestions on what brand poly I should buy? And also do you think sanding would be a good idea?
Thanks again
Varathane water based high traffic formula would probably be a good choice. I have a friend who sealed her table with Waterlox and she recommends it, and I’ve always had good luck with General Finishes products. I wouldn’t recommend sanding the table since its some sort of pressed wood. It would be really easy to accidentally sand too deep. Just clean it and use a coat or two of primer. For primers I like Zinsser brand.
Amy, not too long ago I refinished a triple dresser…white drawers and black top. I sealed it with poly as I wanted to protect it well from grandchildren. This was my first piece and I’m still learning. I used an oil-based poly and yes, it turned yellow. Can I use chalk paint directly over this poly to fix this. The thought of removing the poly seems like a lot of work! Thank you!
Hey Joann! Yes, you can’t paint right over the poly. If for some reason you’re not getting good adhesion you might have to do a coat or two of primer first, but you shouldn’t have to. To test adhesion: paint a small test spot, let it dry completely then scratch it. If it peels right up you have an adhesion problem and you need to prime it. Hope that helps!
I’d like to paint two large doors with chalk paint. They are a dark colour which I think is varnished. Presumably I will have to sand them first. Can you advise me please,
Hi Cathie! You shouldn’t have to sand them first unless the existing finish is rough/uneven, or if you’re just having a really hard time getting the paint to adhere. You should be able to just clean them well and it would probably be a good idea to throw on a couple coats of primer before you paint. Hope that helps!
Hello! We have a cabinet (island) that’s stained w an espresso color. We’d like to chalk paint it blue. Our GC suggested an oil primer. Should we sand, prime, then paint? Should we also wax afterwards? Eeek!
Hey Mara! I’m not sure it’s necessary to use an oil based primer, but you definitely want to clean them well with a deglosser, sand and prime. A water based primer is so much easier to work with/clean up. I personally wouldn’t seal a kitchen island with wax, and would recommend something stronger. Varathane high traffic formula would be a good option to consider. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much! I didn’t think the oil base was necessary either.
Hi, I have a varnished pine cabinet thst I want to paint in aspc Paris Grey. To save me perhaps having to coat it 3 or 4 times should I use a white primer first and would ordinary household paint/emulsion do or do I need s bought primer? Also would I need to sand it prior to any painting? Thanks
Hi Maureen! If you’re using chalk paint, you may not need to prime it at all. You can paint a little on then scratch the paint swatch when it’s dry. If the paint adheres well, you probably don’t need to prime. If it peels up easily when you scratch it, you definitely need to prime and/or sand first. You can absolutely use a white primer to cut the amount of paint coats you’ll need, regardless of whether it technically needs a primer or not. Ordinary household paint is also perfectly acceptable to use, but you will definitely need to prime if you go that route. If the wood has any major scratches or imperfections you’ll want to sand those smooth before painting. If it has a super shiny surface it might be a good idea to run a sander over it quickly just to rough it up, but other than that you shouldn’t need to sand it before painting. Hope that helps!
Hi there! Can I use chalk paint without any prep on my raw wood cabinets? They’ve never been painted, nothing is done to them and they are dying for some color! I need the “easiest” way to paint them and still look great! Thank you!
Hi Denysse! The short answer is yes, you can use chalk paint directly on raw wood and it usually works beautifully. The only issue you might run into is the wood bleeding, depending on the type of wood it is. If this happens, you’ll need to prime it. If you paint a coat then notice bleed through, you can slap a couple coats of primer right over the initial coat of paint, then continue painting when it’s dry. I use Zinsser primers a lot and like them.
Hi, Just found your site! This may have been “covered ” already (haha) But I wanted to ask a question. I have painted over an old wooden table with Miss Lillians Chock paint and then applied the Satin luster coat and let it dry. Then I noticed some paint brush hairs in the finished table. So I picked them free and had a strip of table showing thru in several areas so I touched up the spots with chalk pain without even thinking about the flat spots on top of the satin finish. So now what do I do? Repaint the whole table with chalk paint then satin luster? Or just put the satin stuff on top of the touched up spots? Should I sand it if I repaint it? I am kinda of afraid to proceed without advice.
Thanks ahead of time….
Debo
I’m sorry that happened! What a pain to be almost finished then have to keep working on it. I’ve never worked with either of those products, but I’m going to assume the satin luster is something that can be painted over. It’s just about impossible to touch up paint over a top coat and make it look seamless. Did you just carefully paint in the tiny places where the brush hair was? If so, you might be able to throw a coat of sealer over it and it’ll be such a small imperfection that only you will notice it. If you painted a small patch where the hair was, you’re probably going to have to re-paint the entire top. Assuming you can paint over the satin luster, I would just do another full coat of paint right over top then seal it again. Read the satin luster instructions though. You may have to wait for it to cure before painting or even remove it before painting. Fingers crossed you won’t have any more setbacks :).
Hi, When I bought my house in Spain It came with some older Ikea Hermes white satin bedroom furniture. This is now a bit yellow and as I have never painted furniture before I wondered what prep I would need to do before painting with rust-oleum chalky finish Blanco. The instructions on the tin are also in Spanish.
Hi I am painting my daughter’s bureau and desk which is French provincial but the finish on it is like Formica and kind of glossy what prep Work would you advise I do on them? Thanks also I have found dixie belle paints are great they also have glazes and this new product called sea spray i think it is which i cant wait to try.
Every piece is different. If it’s in good shape, usually a thorough cleaning is all it needs. If you find your paint isn’t adhering well you’ll need to prime it or possibly sand it. To check adhesion, paint a small swatch on, let it dry completely then scratch it. If it peels up you have a problem. If the paint seems like it’s sticking well you should be good to go. 🙂
I have a small dresser I’m working on. After my first coat of paint, the stain bled through my white paint so I applied shellac over that. I then did two more coats of white paint. My question is, if I wanted to distress my piece now, will the stain bleed again through the distressing? Thanks!
Hi Joanna! I’ve never had an issue with that happening. I think it’ll be fine.
Hi! Love your tips & info! I recently did a large farmhouse table & 6 Windsor chairs I. Chalk paint. It was old & dirty & cleaned it with Murphys Oil Soap- great for the table top I stained however it wasn’t a good match for the chalk paint as I think this is causing the paint not to stick & it chips very easily. Of course, this didn’t occur to me until after everything was painted. 🙁 So, would you strip them all the way back down & start over or sand & prime? A very sad commissioned job gone wrong. Live & learn.
Hey Jen! If it were me I’d strip it all off and start over. If the base is unstable you really don’t want to put anything else on top of it until it’s fixed. I’d probably throw a coat of primer on it too once it’s stripped down just to be safe. The last thing you want to do is shortcut the repair and have it start chipping again after you finish it a second time. It stinks when something like that happens and you’re not alone- I’ve made mistakes like that too. Just chalk it up as a learning experience and move forward. I’m sure it’ll be gorgeous when you’re finished with it :).
Thank you!! That’s my new plan of attack! Strip it back down, sand, and prime!! I appreciate your response and honesty. I suppose the only way to learn is by making mistakes. Any tips on the best way to strip all the paint off? 🙂
If you really need to strip it, Citristrip is my favorite. But it’s messy and kind of a pain in the butt so my choice would be to just use a sander to remove the paint. Using a power sander would be easier and faster.
just a word about using shellac primer , which is a really good product, BUT it dries very quickly i would avoid using a brush, use a small cheap foam roller you cover more area quickly which i find best for this product
Fantastic tip! I often buy the aerosol version for small pieces but you’re absolutely right, it dries lightening fast and a foam roller is a great idea if you’re brushing it on.
Hi I was thinking about using white chalk paint on my interior doors, at the moment they are just glossy white but I wanted to make them more distressed looking. Can you paint directly over gloss or should I sand down first and is chalk paint ok for doors and frames and even skirting boards?
You don’t need to sand first. Just wipe them down and dry them first. I used chalk paint on the inside of the door leading out to my garage about a year ago and it still looks great. Don’t seal your doors with wax though. Use a water-based poly (I like General Finishes high performance top coat or Varathane crystal clear heavy use formula). And yes, you can use chalk paint on door frames, etc. Although if you’re doing a ton of doors, frames, baseboards, etc, you might be better off using latex paint. You will have to seal the chalk paint everywhere you use it. It’s extremely porous and holds dirt/fingerprints. Hope that helps and good luck! 🙂
Hi,my first venture using chalk paint. I’m looking to paint some cupboard doors and a bath panel, all have smooth shiny surfaces. Will prime first following your guidelines above but should I wax afterwards or use something else because of the wet environment. Will wax work?.
Ps,Shellac the best primer?.
I like all of the zinsser primers,, Zinsser 123 is supposed to prevent mildew growth and peeling so it might be a good choice for a bathroom. It’s easy soap and water cleanup too. I personally wouldn’t use wax to seal a bathroom cabinet. I would probably use varathane crystal clear heavy use formula. I haven’t done a lot of pieces that would be in a damp environment so it’s possible there are sealers out there better suited for a bathroom than the one I recommended.
Thanks, I’ll have a look round and see what’s available.
I bought a dresser like 6 months ago to redo it for a changing table. (Prego w #3 and due in 2 weeks!) I bought Annie Sloan chalk paint thinking I couldn’t go wrong and cleaned it with simply green and wiped the whole thing down making sure there was no dust. My husband sprayed on the paint and when it dried it bubbled and chipped off in some areas! So I got onto the Annie Sloan Q&A boards did some research and it said to sand down the bad areas and put a coat of shellac B-I-N primer on, wait until it dries and then paint back over it. So I did all this (being eight and a half months pregnant on my hands and knees lol) and hand painted over the areas after they had been sealed and dried and obviously all dust vacuumed and wiped off. This morning I woke up and the same thing happened!!!!!! In less areas but still some of the drawers and problem areas I had before! I’m at a loss and due in 2 weeks and running out of time & flexibility LOL have you ever had this issue before and what pointers could you give me?
I’m so stressed!
Thanks girl
Hey Kelly! Congrats on the new baby!!! How exciting! About the peeling dresser… yes, I’ve had this happen once before and it’s a pain in the butt. Same as you, even after priming it kept peeling. I had to sand it down to bare wood, re-prime it then paint. The trouble table is in my living room and it’s been perfect ever since. You have to REALLY give it a good sanding and get down past that first layer. I know not what you want to do this late in your pregnancy but hopefully husband can help. Out of all the pieces I’ve painted I’ve only had a peeling problem like this once, so it’s really not common and if you decide to paint another piece it’s unlikely you’ll deal with this again. Wishing you lots of luck with everything!!
I would like to chalk paint my 100 year old stairs. There are several layers of paint under the nasty brown color that is on them now. They have been sealed with what I don’t know, but they are glossy. My question is should I prime before using chalk paint and should I brush it on or roll it on? last question is what to seal it with. Thanks.
If I’m going to paint your standard big box furniture store espresso colored bedroom set(I know- it’s killing me that it’s sooo 2008) do I need to sand or can I just prime? I’m gutsy and wantvto paint my entire bedroom set as I’m switching to farhousevstyle. Never painted furniture before but I’m fairly DIY savvy and crafty. Hubby is building the rest of my home decor and furniture but I really can’t afford new bedroom furniture. Love the tutorial- cross your fingers I can do this!!!
No need to sand, just prime and paint! I love that your hubs is building the rest of the furniture for you! I have it in my head that I’m going to attempt to build a new kitchen table and bench this summer. I’ve never built a thing in my life but I’m going to try. Have fun with your projects!
I want to use chalkpaint on my kitchen cabinets they areven oak and fairly new so they have clear coat on them I used a little on it and let dry and when I use my finger nail on it it scraped off do I need to prime first?
I would prime kitchen cabinets no matter what because they are so heavily used. If you’re going with chalk paint, please consider sealing it with something other than wax. I really think you’ll be disappointed after a few months if you use wax because it just doesn’t hold up well in a kitchen.
As someone who is seriously getting the upcycling bug, these tips certainly help me, thank you so much. I have one question though. I am having trouble with a chair I am currently working on. It originally looks like its been painted black, I probably should have sanded them all down at first hindsight is wonderful.
However I applied one coat yesterday and on applying the second coat today it seems like the paint is caking, and coming off in places (if that makes sense). Any tips on how I can sort this out would be grealy appreciated. xx
Hi Hannah! You need to sand or strip the chair. If that existing paint is flaking off, nothing you put on top of it will fix the issue permanently. It’s like building a house- if your foundation is bad the whole house is going to be unstable. Good luck with the chairs and if you’re still having problems with them send me a message and I’ll try to help you figure out a good solution.
Hello Amy,
I just came across your site this morning amd love it. I love all the tips and info. Thank you so much for sharing. My friend and I are going into business together doing the samething as you and your mom and are hoping to have a store someday too. I love your website set up, who do you go through?
Thanks,
Alyssa
Hi Alyssa! Congrats on the new business! I have a wordpress.org site and I purchased my theme from restored 316 designs. If you have any specific questions, feel free to email me at canarystreetcrafts@gmail.com. I’m happy to pass on any info I have that might help you. Best of luck with your business!
Hi Amy,
I have purchased several planks of tongue & groove in order to make a bath panel. I was wondering if it would be possible to paint them with chalk paint ? Would I need to prime first ? Once painted with chalk paint, would this need to be sealed to make the finish water resistant. I’m trying to complete the job as cheaply as I can ( or else I may as well have purchased a panel ). I don’t want to purchase primers, chalk paint and sealers ( very costly ) and then the paint starts to peel or bubble.
Your advise would be very helpful.
thanks.
Hi Joanne! You shouldn’t have to prime the wood but I would absolutely recommend sealing it. Chalk paint is not water resistant, and it’s very porous. It will pick up dirt and fingerprints easily if left unsealed and it’s virtually impossible to clean it without repainting. Depending on how wet it’s going to get- Waterlox might be a good option to seal it. If it won’t get much contact with water you should be able to use any sealer of your choice, but I wouldn’t recommend using wax.
Hi, Can I apply a stencil motif using chalk paint on top of latex paint? Your advice would be appreciated. Thank you so much for your guidance.
Hey Jody! You shouldn’t have any problem doing that!
I have one of those rare pieces that the paint comes off on my fingernail even after sanding the entire piece. It has been suggested that I should paint the piece with 2 coats and then cover with a couple of coats of varethane (or similar) finish. Is this an alternative to sanding right down to the bare wood. My piece is not an old one but rather one that is a veneer of some sort over press board.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Anne! This is common with newer veneer pieces and usually needs to be primed for the paint to adhere properly. Definitely don’t sand it- you could just sand holes through the veneer layer. Try giving it a couple coats of primer, then paint, then seal. I like all the Zinsser brand primers. If it’s a smallish piece you could use Zinsser bullseye shellac in a spray can. Super easy to use, dries really fast and it leaves a nice tooth for the paint to stick to. A brush on primer will work fine too. You’re right to hesitate before painting/sealing when the paint isn’t sticking correctly. You have to fix the base problem before you continue with paint and sealer. Wishing you luck finishing your project!!
Hi Amy,
What an awesome blog! I’m so happy I found it!!!
I’ve purchased a hutch in a thrift store. It is dark stained wood. I’m not sure if it wood bleed and I can’t decide if i want to use chalk paint or flat latex paint mixed with calcium carbonate for diy chalk paint. Do you think if I used the diy chalk paint the wood would bleed through that too without the primer or shellac?
Also what kind of sealer do you use (that is durable) on chalk paint that doesn’t take away from the chp chalky finish? I think this piece is going to need more than a wax finish 😀
Thank you
Hi Val! It’s possible it could bleed through latex paint too. If you have a hunch it’s going to be a problem piece it’s best just to prime first and save yourself the potential headache later. I love General finishes high performance top coat and use it to seal most of my pieces. See this post for more info on sealing furniture- https://canarystreetcrafts.com/why-i-stopped-using-wax-to-seal-furniture/
Good luck with your project!
Thanks Amy,
That’s what I’m gong to do! 😊
Great!! Wishing you luck with it!
Hi Amy,
I have a -probably- silly question…
Can I use the General Finish HP flat topcoat instead of the Shellac to stop the wood from bleeding before chp? I know it’s not oil based, but I have to work indoors and the Shellac smells and I really didn’t want to use any white primer/stain blocker either.
Thx
Not a silly question! And yes, that should work!
Thx Amy for the quick reply and for not laughing!!!
It did feel like a silly question 🙂
I searched the internet all over and it doesn’t seem like anybody uses GF HP top coat for stain blocker before applying chalk paint.
I have had a couple super stubborn pieces that were bleeding after several coats of primer and paint. I have done a top coat of poly over the bleeding paint and put another coat of paint over top and it works so I think you’ll have the same luck doing the poly first. Let me know how it goes!
I just ordered GF online. I let you know if it worked.
Thanks again!!!!
Hello, I recently painted an oak dresser with chalk paint. There are no scratches or anything so I cleaned it Good and painted it black with chalk paint. Came out great but as soon as I applied wax with a paint brush the paint started to come off. I have only waxed two drawers . I realize now that I probably needed a primer but how do I procede. Do I need to start over? What about the two drawers that have wax on them. Help.
Hi Cathy! It definitely sounds like there’s something on the dresser that’s resisting the paint and causing it to have adhesion problems. If it were me I would sand it all off and start over as much as that stinks! Otherwise you will continue to have peeling and chipping issues.
Love your ideas, and the overall style of your site!
Thank you, Meg! <3
I had an oak china cabinet that I used Rustoleum Chalked paint on. When I went to apply the Rustoleum Chalked top coat the paint came off in a few spots. Can I put another coat of the chalk paint over the top coat? Then I would top coat again.
Hi Rae! The paint shouldn’t be coming off when you apply the top coat. It sounds like it’s possible you have an adhesion problem. Now that the top coat is on, does any of it seem like it could easily peel off? Try scratching it in a couple places. If the paint and top coat peel off pretty easily it’s usually an indication that the paint didn’t adhere to the wood for some reason. If that’s the case, it doesn’t matter how many layers you put on top because if the initial layer isn’t sticking to the wood none of them will. Does that make sense? So do the scratch test, if it passes then yes, you can throw another layer of paint right over the existing poly and poly again once it’s dry. If the paint seems like it’s still pulling off easily you may need to consider sanding it all off and starting with a solid base. Hopefully it’s not an adhesion problem and you just need to do that extra coat of paint to clean it up!
Hi Amy! I have an old dresser that I painted with oil paint years ago. What kind of primer should I use, oil or latex based primer? Thanks!!!!
Hi Michelle! It’s ok to use a water based primer over the old oil paint. If you’re planning to repaint it with a water based paint like latex or chalk paint, I would use a water based primer.
Based on your recommendation I use ordered the sander you swear by. We go through sanders like crazy as we work with reclaimed lumber and dismantled old furniture. We have recently been doing more chalk painting of pieces, so your article piqued my interest. Thanks so much for the info and I hope that the sander holds up to a good amount of use. 🙂
I hope you like the sander too, Allie! It really is my favorite and I have several different ones. I don’t have any relationship with that company or incentive to recommend it either! It’s just my fave :). Thanks for stopping by!
Is it ok to use American Tradition interior latex primer on my chest of drawers before chalk painting?
I’ve never worked with that primer but it should be fine!
Hi Amy, I have an original mahogany fire surround which I had french polished 30 years ago, I’m wanting to paint it ,do I have to sand it or do I need to put a primer on , the paint I have is Bedec multi surface paint, it says no primer or undercoat required I’m not sure what to do, what would you recommend please.
Hi, I recently noticed bleed through after my first coat of chalk paint. Can I just paint the Zinsser BIN straight over my first coat of chalk paint? Have you done this before?
I know Annie Sloan says in her website that you can paint shellac straight over chalk paint and it is a shellac based primer so I would assume it was OK. Only i emailed Zinsser and asked them I if could paint it straight over the chalk paint and they said I would have to remove it first! I did email back and told them what Annie recommends on her website but not had a reply since.
I suppose I am just looking for someone who has done this and it has turned out OK! I suspect Zinsser are being cautious?
Yes! I’ve done this more times than I can count and it works totally fine! I’m not sure why Zinsser said not to do it, but from my personal experience I’ve never had a problem with it.
Great, that’s a relief! Thanks for the quick reply!
Hi, I am finally getting around to finishing this project! How many coats of Zinsser BIN would you usually use when you have had bleed through after the first coat of chalk paint? I intend to Zinsser the whole lot before I paint again.
At least two! Some stubborn pieces will keep bleeding through the primer though and could need several more coats. If it needs more than two you’ll know. If you have a really stubborn bleeder sometimes it helps to seal it with a water based poly, then prime again, then paint. The middle coat of poly usually does the trick if several coats of primer aren’t cutting it. Good luck!!
What would be the best brushes to use? Also, I have a big piece of furniture I want to try redoing, but the drawers have so much detail, idk how I would sand. So, would I generally just prime those?
I have several different purdy brushes and like them all. And yes, I would just prime the drawers if needed. I wouldn’t try to sand around all the detail work. Good luck!!
I’m super new to this and so glad I found your site! I have a dresser I bought that the lady had painted and put a thin coat of varnish on. I bought Kilz chalk spray paint and their clear wax and dark wax. Can I just put the clear wax on and then paint it or do I have to take the varnish off first? If so how do I do that? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hi Mya! You don’t have to remove the varnish (unless it’s peeling or damaged). You should be able to paint and wax without removing the existing finish. I’ve never used that brand of paint, you’ll have to let me know if you like it!
Hi! Thank you for all the tips, I have been using for forst time the primer Bin, beacuse for any reason the normal shellac didn’t work on my sanded nightstands and the bleeding tipically appeared after I applied the sealant varathane water base. Well I get this primer and then apply annie sloan paris grey on it and the chalk paint run out too easy..have been so difficult but also i know that the new formula of annie is terrible, after 3 to 4 coats to cover the primer! And then a apply my poly water base and the primer show again! Ahhh I paint all the time but this piece has been a nightmare…help
Ugh what a nightmare! I would try painting another coat or two of paint right over the sealer then seal it again. I’ve been using Fusion mineral paint a lot lately and I love it! I feel like the coverage is better than AS.
Hi so I have worked with chalk paint before refinished some dressers for my daughter’s room. I am trying to make her crib match and the stain keeps showing through. Is that bleeding? I have the sides painted but they don’t look great. Whats your suggestion of what I should do? The crib was stained and I don’t know what type of wood. I did clean it before painting. Thanks for your help. The the whole post was very helpful!
Sounds like it’s bleeding. You can put a primer right over the existing paint. Depending on how stubborn it is you might need a few coats. Just paint a few coats of primer (I like the zinsser brand primers) give it a couple days to make sure the bleeding is stopped, then paint. A couple times I’ve have an extra stubborn bleeder that even the primer doesn’t hold. When that happens I add a coat of poly on top of the primer and that has always worked to stop the bleeding. Hope that helps! Email me if you’re still having problems with it.
Thank you!
Fabulous site – thank you! For my very first experimentation with chalk paint, I upcycled a dining table and chairs and made a hall console table (out of bed slats!). I was happy enough with the results (they looked fine from a distance 😁😉) but less than two months later, I suffered a fairly major house fire. Although I have managed to salvage the pieces before most of my stuff gets dumped, they will need repainting (the soot has stained). My query is that I used Polyvine Wax Finish Dead Flat Varnish to protect them (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00J9JXHYE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) – can I REALLY just chalk paint over that without sanding? My gut feeling is that – as it is used to protect chalk paint from damage, then I would have to sand it off?
Whatever your advice is, I think I will need to use a stain block first – both to avoid sooty stains reappearing and to try and block any smokey smell?
If I have a dresser and two nightstands that were from Bassett furniture and they have a gloss finish do I have to sand first? They are all in pretty good condition but I wasn’t sure if the chalk paint would stick if there’s a gloss.
I want to paint my bathroom vanity with white chalk paint. It has been painted. Espresso color. Would you recommend sanding down to wood color? It has a paint peeling off
That’s a good idea to make sure that you use a primer. I am considering hiring someone to help me with some painting. I’ll have to make sure they use a primer as well if I do.
Hi, When I bought my house in Spain it came with some Ikea Hermes white satin bedroom furniture which I like, but is now slightly yellow in colour. I have never painted furniture before but would like to try. I bought rust-oleum blanco chalky finish paint. Can you advise what prep I need to do to ensure a good finish and whether or not to use wax afterwards. Also the instructions on the paint tin are in Spanish and I know only basic words at the moment.
Thanks for all the tips!
I chalk painted a pattern on a tile floor, and put a Varathane over it, but it scratches super easy. Any thoughts for another top coat?
Hello! We have a cabinet (island) that’s stained w an espresso color. We’d like to chalk paint it blue. Our GC suggested an oil primer. Should we sand, prime, then paint? Should we also wax afterwards? Eeek!